Keeping Equipment Clean: One Key to Success. By James Goulding III

Keeping Equipment Clean:  One Key to Success

by James Goulding III

 

Getting good coaching, watching video, and working in a pro shop have all been valuable tools that have helped me become a successful bowler.  But, there is also another part of my game that is important on a weekly basis, and that is taking care of my bowling equipment so that it takes care of me on the lanes when I need it.  What I mean is, I can’t expect to bowling balls to perform at their peak all the time if I am not willing to put in some time of my own to make sure factors such as lane oil, rubber marks, track grooves, and such don’t take away from the balls performance.  A little bit of extra time spent on cleaning and maintaining your bowling equipment goes a long way to not only keeping your bowling balls working at their optimum level, but also extends their life so that it saves you money on buying new equipment in the long run.  I am going to discuss a few areas where bowlers need to pay attention to, which is daily maintenance, bi-monthly maintenance, and annual maintenance.

DAILY MAINTENANCE

When I write this, I don’t mean go in your bowling bag every day and do the following steps, but rather after each time you bowl a league set, tournament, etc. before the next time you bowl.  First off, I recommend all bowlers use a microfiber towel to wipe the bowling ball off.  This type of towel gets the oil off of the surface of the ball, without scratching the coverstock or leaving marks. 

Secondly, you should take a USBC approved bowling ball cleaner with you in your bowling bag, and use it to thoroughly clean your bowling equipment IMMEDIATELY after you are done bowling, before you get home.  I can not stress enough the importance of getting the lane oil and dirt out of the coverstock as soon as possible, as with the porous coverstocks on resin bowling equipment, it takes no time at all for the oil to “soak” into the cover and stay in the ball.  This causes loss of hooking action, and possibly premature ball death due to it being contaminated with lane oil deep in the coverstock.  By simply cleaning the ball as soon as you are done, you have a very good chance of removing most of the oil from the outer surface of the ball, before it has a chance to soak in and cause long-term damage to your bowling equipment.

Lastly, invest in a ball carrier to put each of your bowling balls in before you put them in your bowling bag.  These carriers are fairly cheap (in the $10 range) but by putting your ball in them, you are protecting it against anything sticking out of your bowling bag that could damage it, as well as protecting it from getting cracked in case you accidently drop it.  Also, if you have a locker, it prevents the ball from rolling around and getting scratched up from any rocks or debris in the locker. 

BI-MONTHLY MAINTENANCE

Calling it bi-monthly maintenance is a “loose” term, what I mean is the following steps should be taken every 50  games or so (which would be bi-monthly if you bowl twice a week).  What I am referring to is giving your ball a hot water bath so that you remove any lane oil that has been soaked into the deeper parts of the coverstock.  Using the towel and cleaners works good to get MOST of the oil out of your ball night in and night out, but to get the oil that is missed, you need to do something that can extract the oil out where the cleaner and towel can’t reach.  This is where the hot water bath comes in.

First, I recommend you sand your ball down to about a 400 grit surface before putting the ball in any water bath.  This can be done with regular 400 grit sandpaper, or a maroon scotch brite pad, or even a 500 abralon pad will suffice.  What this does is it opens up the pores of the ball, allowing the oil to escape out when the ball is submerged in the water bath.  If you do not have any sandpaper, doing the bath is technically “better than nothing”, but you can always go to your local pro shop and ask them to sand it for you before you do the bath, so doing that would be an option as well. 

As far as the actual bath goes, the biggest thing to remember is to make sure the water temp. does not exceed 140 degrees.  If your water is hotter than 140 degrees, you run the risk or removing plasticisers in the ball, which will harden the resin and ruin the bowling ball.  If you are not sure how hot your water temp. runs, as long as the water is not too hot to put your hand in for an extended period of time, that should suffice for the water bath.  Using an actual thermometer is best, but use you head, don’t just “drop” the ball in the water if it is too hot to handle.

When you start running the water, put in a few drops of liquid dish soap (DAWN or equivalent) that will be used ot help break up the lane oil and grease in the coverstock.  Fill a bucket up enough so that the ball will be completely submerged below the surface and then place the ball gently in the bucket.  Some people like to tape over the finger and thumb holes, but I do not recommend doing this.  You are blocking a route of escape for oil and dirt, and the bath does not hurt finger or thumb inserts since it is just water and dish soap.  At this point, you let the ball soak for approximately 15 minutes and place on the counter on a towel ot let the remainder of the water drip off of the ball.  You will notice an oily/water type mixture on the surface of the ball, especially if it has been a very long time since this process has been done (if ever).  Wipe the surface clean using a microfiber towel (or equivalent) until it is dry.  If you are seeing this oily mixture on the surface, you need to perform the water bath again, until you no longer see any oil come to the surface of the bowling ball.  I would recommend changing the water each time to start fresh, and not have any oil floating around in the water when you re-submerge the ball.  Once the ball has only water on the surface (and on oil or dirt), you are done.  It may take 2-3 15 minute sessions to get all the oil out, but it is well worth it.  Give the ball ample time to dry before use again, I would recommend 24 hours to  make sure all the water has gotten out of the coverstock.

Now, once the water bath is complete, you need to take the coverstock of the ball back to whatever the factory finish was on the ball.  This will ensure you get the same type of reaction you are used to out of your bowling ball.  If you do not have the tools at home to do this, take it to your local pro shop and have them complete the process.

ANNUAL MAINTENANCE

This section is going to deal with a few of the things bowlers should do once a season to their bowling balls to make sure they last long, and perform well.  I have covered ways to keep oil out of the ball, but now I will get into what to do when the ball becomes “tracked up” with all the marks from the lanes.  When a bowling ball has more than 80-100 games on it, it loses its polish (if it is a polished ball), and also gets a series of grooves in the coverstock form the places that the ball touches the lane consistently.  This has an adverse effect on your ball motion, and causes it to not perform at a peak level.  The only way to get these grooves out (an re-polish the ball) is with a resurfacing.  This will remove the scratches and gouges and get the ball back to like-new performance.

When I resurface bowling balls, I like to take them down to a 220 grit surface, sanding the ball in (4) different directions in a ball spinner.  The first two directions are having the finger holes and thumb holes both sit horizontally, parallel with the top of the ball spinner.  Once you sand that side of the ball, flip it over 180 degrees to do the other side.  Then when you’re done on both of those sides of the bowling ball, position the ball so that the fingers and thumb are on top, pretty much horizontal (perpindicular) to the ball spinner.  Sand the ball with the fingers and thumb up, and then turn the ball 180 degrees to sand the other side of the ball.  At this point, you are done with the 220 grit (or whatever other grit you might be using).  Sand the ball this way for each grit, until you reach the final grit that the ball came in at from the factory.  Refer to the bowling ball companies website or sheet that came with the ball to make sure you get the correct final surface for your bowling ball. 

Also, if the ball requires a polishing process, polish it in the same (4) directions you sanded the ball in to ensure you are doing things the same way all the time.  Refer to the company recommendations for what type of polish to use on your bowling ball to achieve the correct reaction on your bowling ball.  If you do not feel comfortable doing this process, which can be very time-consuming, take the ball to your local pro shop and have them complete the process for you.  Usually this costs in the $25-40 range, varying from shop to shop and how bad the ball was to begin with for the cost of resurfacing.  That is still much cheaper than having to buy a new ball because your old one “died” from lack of proper maintenance.

The last thing I will recommend for yearly maintenance is to change your finger inserts (if you use them) in your ball.  Over the course of a season, the inserts become worn out, causing them to feel big or slippery since there is a good chance there is some lane oil and dirt mixed into the rubber inserts.  It costs between $5-10 for a new pair from your local pro shop, and should be done at least once a season (probably more if you bowl more than twice per week).  When it comes to your thumb, also make sure you change out your thumb tape regularly, because the sweat from your thumb, as well as the oil and dirt from the lane, causes the tape to lose its grip.  Those two simple steps can go a long way to making you feel comfortable all the time in your bowling ball.

Well, that is all I have for tips to keep your bowling equipment in tip-top shape.  Today’s bowling balls are more aggressive and condition specific than ever, and hopefully with the methods I discussed earlier, you can keep those bowling balls running at peak performance, and able to be used for the right conditions they were intended for.  The opinions expressed in this blog post are my own, and do not reflect the opinion of the MSUSBC.  Thank you for reading, and feel free to comment on anything you see here, I will try and respond as quickly as possible.  Good luck, and good bowling!

Balancing Technology with Tradition by James Goulding III

Balancing Technology with Tradition

by James Goulding III

I have been thinking a lot lately about the direction of the sport of bowling, and some of the good and bad things that have shaped the sport we have today. Any way we slice it, technology advancements have put their permanent mark on the game of bowling, and the jury is still out as to whether or not those changes have helped or hurt the game as a whole. The one thing that can not be debated, however, is that there seems to be no turning back to the old days of sub 200 averages being king, and spare shooting being the name of the game. Today’s bowling is a different animal altogether. If it is true in baseball that “chicks dig the long ball”, then I think the same can be said about bowling in the sense that “chicks dig the hambone”. What I mean, of course, is that stringing strikes together is the name of the game nowadays, long gone from the days of grinding out 192 games to take a high game pot. Now, if you can’t shoot 250+ on any given night, don’t even bother wasting your money. Is this the way the sport is going to stay, or is there a possibility of striking a balance between tradition and technology that everyone can live with?

First off, let me say that the USBC has done a wondeful job with bowling ball research, and possible solutions on the equipment end to reign in the scoring pace across the board. The new porousity rule for coverstocks, as well as increasing the minimum rg value (which takes affect next season), are both welcome and needed changes to bring more “standardization” to bowling equipment. The reason for all this, of course, is to minimize the effect bowling balls have on lane conditions, and to help bring into focus the scoring pace of bowling as a whole. With all that being said, I still think the USBC has been dropping the ball (figuratively speaking) to bring ALL aspects of the sport up to speed and keep integrity in the game of bowling.

One aspect that has been seemingly ignored by the USBC is what the bowling balls glide through as they go down the lane, and that is lane oil and lane conditions. The rules on what needs to be put down for a bowling shot to be legal, according to USBC, is almost laughable, as houses have a very wide margin for manipulating shots to increase (or decrease) the scoring pace, while still being within USBC specifications. In my opinion, tightening up restrictions on lane oil conditioning is the key to bringing the scoring pace back to a more rspectable level, which brings factors such as talent and mental toughness back to the game of bowling. Lowering ratio of oil, shortening patterns, or even just telling bowling centers they need to put out one of three patterns and that’s all they can lay down night in and night out, could have drastic effects on the game of bowling. Also, the USBC could look at lane oil viscosity, and standardize some sort of conditioner that houses could put out, as well as stength of stripper solution that can be used on the lanes. These are things that could be implemented almost immediately, but have seemingly been ingored. Why?

The only reason I can think of is that the USBC is scared to lose bowling centers that wouldn’t want to comply, thus possibly lowering more membership numbers, and hurting the sport. I think it is worth the risk. Numbers have been declining since the late 1980’s, so trying a bold new strategy wouldn’t be a bad idea. Also, the BPAA and USBC are now partners, which will make it harder to change aspects of what bowling centers need to do to change their ways and help the sport, so the honus falls on bowling ball companies to change their product to compensate, since all of the USBC research has focused on limiting what they can produce. I am not saying that all the blame should be shifted to either bowling ball makers, or bowling centers, or even the USBC themselves, but they all need to realize they have done their part to lead the sport down the road where we are today, so they all need to change how they do things to get the sport back on top.

The old saying “it takes two to tango” is very true when you look at what has been done to the sport of bowling over the past 25 years, and looking forward what needs to be done to save the sport for future generations to enjoy. I, for one, am all for doing whatever it takes to bring integrity and ability back to bowling, and I think that if the USBC, BPAA, ball companies, etc. all realize that most bowlers want what is best for the sport, they will try and make the needed changes to make it great again. If this means less honor scores every year, then so be it. If a bowler gets less awards, that seems like a bad thing, but a positive spin would be that those awards mean so much more when you actually get one. I think we can all get on board with that kind of logic.  Opinions expressed in this post are solely mine and may not reflect the opinions held by MSUSBC.  Thank you for reading, and if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave a message, and I will try and respond ASAP.

-James Goulding III

www.lausbca.org

www.msusbc-maine.org

League Prize Funds – By David Charron

I have bowled in Leagues for the last 30 Years in many different Associations in Numerous States. I have also prepared Prize Fund Proposals for a majority of the leagues I have bowled on. So I pose the question, what makes a good Prize Fund?

First, the rules pertaining to League Prize Funds. Prize Funds should be presented to the league as soon as possible USBC Rules mandate by week 5. Remember a Prize Fund must have the MAJORITY vote in order to be accepted. What this means is that if you have 16 Teams and you distribute 3 Prize Lists, in order to be accepted one must receive at least 9 Votes. Otherwise, you must drop the list(s) with the least votes and re-vote on the 2 Lists which received the most votes.

Now, you’re preparing a list, what should you include. Most leagues in Maine bowl a split season. Halves, Quarters, or even Thirds. For the sake of this discussion we are going to assume your league has 16 teams and bowls a split season in 2 halves. Your prize fund should pay every team based on standings each half. And then pay the top 2 or 4 teams in a roll-off at the end of the year. Additionally you should pay Team Awards for High Series Scratch, High Series Handicap, High Game Scratch, and High Game Handicap. The awards should be of equal value, and you should pay 2 place in each so that half of the teams in this league will get some Team Award Money. Also, you will pay Individual Awards for the same, High Series Scratch, High Series Handicap, High Game Scratch, and High Game Handicap. Again these awards should be of equal Value, except I would pay 3 Places in each, so that 12 different bowlers will get individual Award Money. There will also be awards for High Average 3 Places, and Most Improved 2-3 Places. Finally, let’s talk Point Money. For those of you who don’t know what Point Money is – it is an amount of money that each team will receive for each point it wins during the regular bowling season – not including Roll-Offs. The reason to include Point Money in your prize fund is for 2 very important reasons. First Point Money will give some of the bottom teams a little extra money which is more evenly distributed than your overall league prizes, because there will just not be as much disparity between first and last place monetarily where point money is concerned. For instance is point money is worth $1 per point, then the first place team may get $160 in point money and the last place team is going to get around $75 in point money as opposed to the $600 For first and $100 for last they are also going to get. The second reason is Point Money is easily adjusted to account for variation in Actual Prize Fund Dollars at the end of the year. As you know most leagues have 50/50, which provides a unknown amount to the prize fund, and therefore you could have a “budget Shortfall or Windfall” at the end of the year, which without point money leaves you with a problem of what to do. With Point Money you have a way to easily adjust the point money to the Actual Amount in the Prize Fund at the end of the year.

Let’s Assume your League has 16 Teams and a Prize Fund of $10,000. This is exactly what I would submit for a Prize Fund

Team Place Awards

First Half                          Second Half                         Roll-Offs

1st $ 500.00                  1st $ 500.00                      1st $ 500.00

2nd $ 300.00                2nd $ 300.00                    2nd $ 300.00

3rd $ 200.00                3rd $ 200.00                     3rd $ 200.00

4th $ 175.00                4th $ 175.00                       4th $ 100.00

5th $ 150.00                5th $ 150.00                      

6th $ 125.00                6th $ 125.00

7th $ 100.00               7th $ 100.00

8th $ 100.00               8th $ 100.00

9th $ 75.00                 9th $ 75.00

10th $ 75.00              10th $ 75.00

11th $ 50.00              11th $ 50.00

12th $ 50.00             12th $ 50.00

13th $ 50.00             13th $ 50.00

14th $ 50.00             14th $ 50.00

15th $ 50.00             15th $ 50.00

16th $ 50.00             16th $ 50.00

Team Awards

High Series Scratch - High Game Scratch – High Series Handicap – High Game Handicap

1st $ 150.00  2nd $ 100.00 

Individual Awards

High Series Scratch - High Game Scratch – High Series Handicap – High Game Handicap

1st $ 100.00  2nd $ 60.00  3rd $40.00

High Average

1st $ 125.00  2nd $ 75.00  3rd $50.00

Most Improved

1st $ 75.00  2nd $ 50.00  

Point Money Estimated Point Money $0.82 Approx Per Point $ 2,525.00

Actual Point Money Adjusted to Reflect Actual Total Prize Fund

Total Prize Fund $ 10,000.00  

I hope this post has been thought provoking, I am sure Some bowler would not vote for this prize fund and others would, but it is meant to be the start of topic conversation. Opinions expressed in this post are solely mine and may not reflect the opinions held by MSUSBC. As always your comments and opinions are welcome and encouraged. Please post your responses and thank you for reading the Bowler 2 Bowler Blog. Good luck and good bowling I hope everyone is having a great Start to the Fall League Season. I’m sure I will see you on the Lanes.

Finding Motivation and Mental Focus Comes From Within: by James Goulding III

Finding Motivation and Mental Focus Comes From Within

by James Goulding III

 

How many times have you seen a team mate throw a bad frame, only to lose their cool and subsequently it costs them an open the very next frame? It happens all the time, and I bet each and every one of us who have ever picked up a bowling ball and bowled competitively have a similar experience to what I just mentioned, only it is YOU, and not a team mate, who is the culprit.

Most of us competitive bowlers are now a week or two into the fall league season, and as we get back into the swing of things (no pun intended), we must remind ourselves that the game of bowling is all about your ability to deal with adversity, and how to make the best out of bad situations. What I basically mean is that bowling is about 90% mental, and only 10% physical. Anybody can say they love to bowl when they shoot their first 300, or a high series, or strike out in the 10th frame to win a match. But, how many times have you said you love the game after shooting a career low game or series, or split in the 10th frame to lose a match by 2 pins? If you love something, you need to realize that there are going to be good times, and bad times, but keeping a level head and motivating yourself from within will help lessen the impact those bad times have on any potential good times you might miss out on otherwise.

I find that you need to have the mentality of a closer in baseball when it comes to bad shots in bowling, which means you have a short memory and live in the moment. When you whiff a 10-pin, let it go, don’t stew over it for the next three frames, or you will lose your mental focus altogether, and snowball toward a terrible finish, and wonder what happened at the end of the game. Just let that open go, and concentrate on the next good shot. You will find that by doing this, you have allowed positive thoughts to fill the space that would otherwise be filled by negative images of the open you just threw, and allow you to re-focus your efforts on making good, clean, crisp shots going forward.

Also, start keeping a running journal during bowling. Many bowlers do not realize the power of simply tracking your shots frame by frame, and seeing where you might be making your mistakes. Also, I like to keep track of which lanes I am bowling on, and what ball I threw, so that I have a good idea of what works, and what to stay away from the next time I bowl on a certain pair of lanes. The biggest reason for tracking your scores is simply repetition of the mind, and the power of cognative repeatability. What I mean is, by writing down your shots after each frame, you are channeling your brain to think more about your game and ways to improve it, instead of thinking about what Rita the waitress is wearing, or what the high score is on the pinball game in the game room. This is just another tool to sharpen your mind, and help overcome those lulls when one may lose mental focus.

Visual imagery is another powerful mental tool that can improve your game. Close your eyes and visualize where you want the ball to go, think about what arrow it goes over and watch as it goes down the lane and thunders into the pocket for a strike. This technique takes some practice, but once you get it down, it is VERY effective in helping your brain understand and guide your physical being toward throwing quality shots down the lane shot after shot.

By using the power of positive thinking, the cognative repetition of score tracking, and visual imagery, you will notice a marked improvement in your scores without ever having to set foot on the lanes for practice. Like I said earlier, bowling is 90% mental and 10% physical. Once you learn some tools and techniques that work for you consistently, you will have an advantage over every opponent, and will learn to enjoy the game of bowling no matter what you score. Take care, and any questions or comments are always welcome. Thank you for reading, good luck and good bowling!

- James Goulding III

www.lausbca.org

www.bowlingboards.com

www.msusbc-maine.org

Trimming Down a Bowling Ball Arsenal……A Lefties Approach

Trimming Down a Bowling Ball Arsenal………..A Lefties Approach

by James Goulding III

 

Well, here I am at the cornerstone of another league season, pondering what to do about bowling equipment. I remember the days when you could just keep the same 2-3 balls in your bag for a couple of seasons, and once a year give them a quick re-surface job and go bowling. Nowadays, with specialized balls for different lane conditions, and cover stocks that need constant cleaning and attention, it actually takes a re-tooling of my entire arsenal each season.

So, I am going to list what I have by manufacturer, and see if I can brainstorm ideas on how to trim down what I have to save on the “confusion” factor later on down the road.  I am sure there are many of you out there in a similar boat that I am in right now, so hopefully my selection process can be a help to some of you out there who are struggling with which equipment to keep in the bag, and which to leave at home.  Here is my current active ball list broken down by manufacturer:

Brunswick
Swarm
Twisted Fury Solid
Ultra Zone (not drilled yet)

Columbia
Perfect Rival

Ebonite
The One (re-release)
Big One

Hammer
No Mercy

Lane #1
Chainsaw Massacre

MoRich
Awesome Revs

Storm
Virtual Gravity
Secret Agent

Here is what I have come up during my brain storming session.  I tried to take into account a few factors, including age of the bowling ball, cover stock overlap between balls, and drill patterns that may be very similar so that having two balls in my bag that do basically the same thing would be bad.

Leading off, I think I am going to shelve the Awesome Revs in favor of the Secret Agent. Both are a particle pearl blend, but the Secret Agent has a smooth pin-axis drilling on it, which gives me a completely different look than anything else in my bag.

Next, I am going to take the Big One out of the rotation and put it on the bench.  This ball has an identical drill pattern to the One and very similar to the Swarm, so it will not see much play since it has more games on it than both of those balls.

That brings me to a tough choice, the No Mercy.  This is a hard one for me since I have shot some VERY good scores with this ball, but it is very cleaning sensitive and pretty aggressive, so I will leave it in the tournament rotation only, because I will not be able to justify having it in the lineup if I can’t use it on a regular house shot most of the time.

The Ultra Zone is a non-factor as of right now since it has yet to be drilled, but I will have it waiting in the wings in case I need it.  I think I am going to try a funky drilling on this ball to turn it into a true “specialty ball”.

Here is what the rotation looks like now, after that selection process:

Swarm
Twisted Fury Solid
Perfect Rival
The One (re-release)
Chainsaw Massacre
Virtual Gravity
Secret Agent

Well, I have been able to trim it down from 11 to 7, which is pretty good.  I think I may be able to trim one more ball, but I am going to leave this alone for the time being and let things play out as the season progresses.  These will be the balls in my league lineup, and in my next blog entry I will discuss what I will do for a good all around tournament lineup of bowling equipment.  Thanks for reading, and any comments are always welcome!!

-James Goulding III

www.lausbca.org

www.msusbc-maine.org

League Meetings: Logic vs. Lunacy by James Goulding III

League Meetings: Logic vs. Lunacy

by James Goulding III

 

I was inspired to write this blog post from a personal experience at one of my league meetings last night.  It is the time of the year when we get together and decide what the by-laws, league dues, and any other league associated business for the season at an annual meeting.  Sometimes some great ideas come from these events, and other times (like my last one) things seem to escape the realm of logic and I am leaving the meeting scratching my head and wondering how some people can function rationally on a day to day basis.

Since bowling and golf are always being compared / associated together by bowlers (because many bowlers also golf), I am going to make a few comparisons as associated to how it ties into a few items from a league meeting.  I know that sounds kind of funny, but stick with me on this one, you won’t be sorry you did.  I am going to cover league costs, equipment costs, and then a brief summary about the whole league meeting process.

COST

At my league meeting we had a proposal to go from $14 a week to $15 a week.  While many bowlers see any increase in dues as a bad thing that just “costs more money”, I see it as a positive thing for the entire league.  Our league was going from 24 to 22 teams, which meant a slip in prize fund due to 10 less bowlers putting their $4 a week into the prize fund coffers.  This equated out to about $1300 for the season, which is a significant difference.  By going up $1 a week in dues, we could have added over $3800 to the prize fund, thus erasing the $1300 deficit and adding $2500 even with two less teams.  Seems reasonable, right?  Well, this is the point in the meeting where logic left the table, and lunacy set in. 

There was a bowler who said, and I quote, “Why do we want to go up a dollar, I am not here to make anybody rich”.  I defy anybody out there to find me a bowler who has gotten rich off a $15 a week bowling league.  It does not exist, period.  Furthermore, the money would be added to the prize fund FOR THE ENTIRE LEAGUE, NOT AN INDIVIDUAL BOWLER.  You see how the logic train is becoming de-railed?  So, here is where I get to the golf comparison for a minute.  The bowler(s) putting up the stink about league dues also happen to golf (at least many of them do).  Let’s do a quick cost comparison shall we?  Average golf dues for 18 holes run in the $30 range, and many can go as high as $100 a round, but for the sake of argument I will stick to the $30 number.  So, if you golf once a week you are paying what you would for 2 weeks of bowling.  If you golf from May-October in Maine (which is the length of the golf season here) and go once a week, your average cost is around $780.  And guess what, you get ZERO back from golfing because the money you pay in only covers your greens fees, if you want to join a golf league and try and get back any money, that will cost you more.  Your $780 investment for golf has netted you NOTHING in return.

As far as bowling goes, you bowl for 33 weeks at a cost of $15 and your total cost is $495, which is $285 LESS than the golf and you do it for a longer period of time (33 weeks compared to 26).  Also, you are going to GET MONEY BACK because you are putting $5 a week out of your $15 toward a prize fund.  Plus, the better you bowl, the more money you can get back.  Imagine that huh?  I don’t understand how the same people who will pay $30 for a round of golf, which costs MUCH more than bowling and you get NOTHING in return, can argue AGAINST going up $1 in league dues to $15 a week (or half of what a round of golf costs).  It boggles my mind.  I know, it makes too much sense, so therefore at our league meeting the motion to go from $14 to $15 a week was shot down in flames.  It was at this point I started tuning out and seeing sugar plum fairies dancing on the ceiling, because that made about as much sense as what we just voted in.

EQUIPMENT COST

So, after I removed the steak knife from my neck after the vote on league dues, I was listening to some of my fellow bowlers around me complain about equipment cost, and how they could not afford to pay $1 more for league bowling since they are going to have to buy (2) more new balls for the upcoming bowling season.  Oh boy, now the logic train is down in a canyon never to be found again I am afraid.  Let me put this into perspective again with golf, as the same people complaining about equipment and going up a WHOLE DOLLAR in league dues, are the same people who golf, and I will show how their madness has reached epic levels.

Bowling balls are expensive, I will not deny you that.  But, if you go to a reputable shop (like Moore’s Pro Shop in Lewiston, ME.) you can get into a high end ball for around $175 out the door.  So, if you are going to buy (2) new balls for the upcoming season (which is what the people in my meeting were saying for example), it will cost you roughly $350.  Now, golf clubs are a WHOLE different story.  You can spend upwards of $700 on just one club.  Lets assume “high end” for golf clubs since I was talking about “high end” for bowling equipment.  I was doing some comparison shopping, and the average retail for a good set of high end golf clubs was $2100 (this is a set of Taylor Made clubs, and not even the most expensive type they offer, either).  You can spend upwards of $4000 or more for a set of clubs easily.  If you think bowling balls are expensive, and you golf, you have ZERO credibility when you say bowling balls are too expensive to me, especially if that is part of your reasoning for not going up $1 in league dues for the upcoming season.  Basically, you could buy over 6 seasons worth of bowling equipment compared to the cost of (1) set of golf clubs.  Wow, that puts it into perspective now doesn’t it?

SUMMARY

Some positive things come out of league meetings, such as changing rules to benefit all the league bowlers, and conversing with the bowling center owner on things the league would like to see done differently.  Not all things at league meetings are bad.  But, when it comes to money, or anything associated with it, many bowlers seem to leave logic at the door, and put on their cheap skate hat no matter how much sense a proposal makes.

In closing, I would like to say that by showing the actual cost breakdown when comparing golf to bowling there is no comparison that bowling is cheaper, and offers you a chance for a return on your investment.  The reason I did this, was to show a logical way to explain it to those bowlers out there who complain that league bowling is too expensive, or the equipment costs too much, or what ever reason they want to give to BE CHEAP.  I guess being cheap for some people only extends to bowling, since the SAME PEOPLE who complain about going from $14 a week to $15 a week will shell out almost $800 for a golf season (which is 6-7 weeks shorter than a bowling season).  I hope that you can take some of this information and present it to your bowlers at you next league meeting to avoid the same fate as the meeting I attended recently.  The numbers don’t lie, and in this case it is a no brain-er that we should have gone up to $15, but hey, there’s always next year.  Take care everyone, and have a wonderful bowling season.  Please feel free to comment on anything you read, and I will try and get back to you ASAP, thanks.

-James Goulding III

www.lausbca.org

www.msusbc-maine.org

Is Your Equipment Legal – By David Charron

Recently my local association had a meeting in which they discussed the need to monitor equipment at both the Local and State level. The argument they made for wanting to do this was a simple one; some members of My Local Association feel that bowlers must be using Illegal Equipment to be able to achieve the scores and accolades of the recent past. This association is considering purchasing an electronic scale for the purpose of weighing equipment prior to any Local Level Sanctioned Tournament and also any State Level Events which are to be held in our Local Association Facilities. I am going to break this down into sections of discussion at this is a very broad and bold statement being made by my local association.

High Averages & Honor Scores

The reason for the fact that scores have gone through the roof is many. But the 2 things that immediately come to mind are lane conditions and technology. The days of the Rubber and Plastic Bowling ball are gone. Hence the new age of very technologically advanced equipment, this makes bowling on “House Conditions” much easier than in years past. This quickly brings me to the second and most important point of the reason why scores are so high, Lane Conditions. Let’s face it the typical house shot for an advanced player is somewhat easy. A very good to excellent bowler can easily find an area of the lane to play, which with their equipment will give them 5-7 boards to hit and still get to the pocket, as when the ball sails to the right it hits the drier boards on the lane which create more hook bringing the ball back to the pocket. Thus more balls in the pocket equal more striking equal higher scores. Unfortunately Lane Conditions are not going to voluntarily be made harder by the Center Management, because the typical bowler in this day and age wants to bowl once a week, never practice, and still maintain what they consider to be a decent or competitive average usually somewhere between 185-205. (Adjust this number depending on the skill level of the player) Don’t get me wrong I know there are still bowlers out there who are trying to improve through practice, but those are few and far between. In some recent years, some centers have elected to make the shot “Tougher”, the general result of this experiment by some proprietors has been met with angry “Customer’s”, and they eventually go back to the “Easy House Shot”. They do not lose bowler’s generally to other centers, because unlike other places there is not a lot of competition for local bowlers in Maine, except in Bangor. What usually happens is bowler’s who get extremely frustrated with these “tougher” conditions quit bowling altogether. Proprietors are in the business to make money, they do so by keeping their customer’s happy, they keep their customer’s happy by giving in to the majority and that majority wants to achieve high scores. So forget about changing the lane conditions anytime soon. If you want to test your skill level on “tougher” conditions, I suggest joining a PBA Experience League, or a Sport League.

Illegal Equipment

Let me first say that if anyone is knowingly using illegal equipment, I am the first in line saying they should be suspended from USBC. I think that Association Members at both the Local and State level should be very careful when suggesting that Bowler’s are using illegal equipment without the proof that they are. Making such statements is not fair to those bowler’s, and they could turn around and sue you for defamation. I do not think that there are an abundance of bowler’s in Maine who are purposefully cheating by using illegally drilled equipment. I think in most cases the illegal things that happen in Maine are centered on what happens during competition (i.e. cleaners, abrasives, powders, etc). I would however agree the idea of routinely checking equipment at Tournaments and after Honor Scores is a good one, because I think there are many reasons for illegal equipment and I also agree that there is some of it out there being used everyday. First, I think there are some people out there drilling equipment who truly do not know what they are doing, and have no idea about the rules when it come to balancing a bowling ball. Second, I think some pro-shops are using old un-calibrated equipment for weighing bowling balls. Third, I think there are guys out there who are willing to do anything to make their Customer happy, with no regard for the rules. But still in most of these cases I don’t think the bowler even knows the ball they just purchased is drilled illegally. In our current culture they would never know unless they went to nationals. I know of 3 or 4 Bowlers who recently went to nationals only to find out that their Equipment was drilled illegally, in some instances so bad that they could not be fixed without a complete plug and re-drill. If you care about your equipment, I suggest you pick a very reputable shop to have your equipment done, ask questions, make sure you understand how your equipment is going to be drilled, once you find that Pro Shop stick with it. I have been going to the same place to get my equipment for over 10 Years, I have been to numerous USBC National Tournaments and never have I had a ball rejected. At the bottom of this article you will find some of the Specifications as outlines in the Equipment Specification Manual provided by USBC. There is also a Link to the full manual below.

Local and State Level Events Weighing Equipment

As I stated previously, it is a great idea to weigh equipment both before Tournament Competition and also after Honor Scores are achieved, with a few stipulations. Phase this program into place; don’t just throw it in place. Maybe even provide it as a voluntary project the first couple of years. In order to have every bowler go through a weigh station prior to bowling would require bowler to arrive at least 1 hour before a scheduled squad start time, it’s hard enough to get bowlers to arrive more than 5 minutes before the start of a squad. By phasing it in you give the bowlers the opportunity to get used to it, and understand it before throwing it at them. Remember a lot of bowers don’t even have a clear understanding of the rules, or what a weight hole, side weigh, finger weight, or top weight is. Consistency is going to be paramount here, if someone thinks a ball is out of balance it should be checked, double, and triple checked before the determination is made. At Nationals, a ball goes on an electronic scale, if it is slightly above the tolerance levels it is then sent over to a second more advanced scale system, which more accurately finds the specs of the ball. My concern is that the Local Association is going to buy a used electronic scale much like the first one used at Nationals. But will not have access to the more advanced version should something be close at initial weighing. The other concern I have is those individuals who will be responsible for conducting the weighing, how well trained will they be, if you have Pro Shop operators out there who can’t find the center lines of a grip, and are producing illegal equipment how well versed are these individuals who are going to be charged with the process going to be. While phasing this in, I think there should be a list of Balls, Bowlers, and where they were drilled kept on file which brings me to the next point

Pro Shops & Pro Shop Operators

I think that their should be an organization formed perhaps overseen by the State Assocaiton to come up with a program for accrediting Pro Shops in the state who meet or exceed certain benchmarks while doing this program of weighing equipment. See notes above about finding a reputable pro shop, our State Association is suppose to be here for the bowler’s. Something like this would be helpful to those bowler’s in our state who are looking for a pro shop. The cost for this would be very minimal, a list on a website, and a paper certificate which the Pro Shop Proprietor could display.

Bowling Ball Specifications

 Weight:

 The weight of the ball shall not exceed 16.00 pounds. There is no minimum weight.

Hardness:

 1. The surface hardness of bowling balls shall not be less than 72 durometer D at room temperature (68 – 78 degrees F).

2. The use of chemicals, solvents or other methods to change the hardness of the surface of the ball after it is manufactured is prohibited.

Circumference and Diameter:

A bowling ball shall not have a circumference of more than 27.002 inches (diameter of 8.595 inches) nor less than 26.704 inches (diameter of 8.500 inches).

Roundness:

A bowling ball shall be spherical and shall not be out of round by more than 0.010 inches.

Radius of Gyration:

The radius of gyration of a 13.00 lb. or more bowling ball, about any axis, shall not be less than 2.430 inches nor more than 2.800 inches. In addition, the maximum differential radius of gyration between any two axes of the same ball shall not exceed 0.060 inches. These shall be tested in accordance with an USBC approved test procedure (see Appendix C).

Marking:

Each ball must be uniquely identifiable by the following: 1. Brand Name/Logo 2. Ball Name 3. Individual Serial Number 4. USBC Star logo (examples at right)

Center of Gravity (CG) Marking Location:

The center of gravity (CG) of an un-drilled ball must be clearly identifiable by a unique mark or indicator.

Coefficient of Restitution:

The coefficient of restitution of a 13.00 lb. or more bowling ball shall not be less than 0.650 nor greater than 0.750 when tested in accordance with an USBC approved test procedure (see Appendix D). Coefficient of Friction: The coefficient of friction of a 13.00 lb or more bowling ball shall not exceed 0.320 when tested in accordance with an USBC approved test procedure at a relative humidity of between 30% and 50% (see Appendix E). The ball may be tested anywhere between 320 grit to 3000 polish.

Holes:

The following limitations shall govern the drilling of holes in the ball:

1. Holes or indentations for gripping purposes shall not exceed five (5) and shall be limited to one for each finger and one for the thumb, all for the same hand. The player is not required to use all the holes in any specific delivery, but they must be able to demonstrate, with the same hand, that each hole can be used simultaneously for gripping purposes. Any hole that cannot be reasonably shown to be used with a single hand would be classified as a balance hole.

2. One hole for balance purposes not to exceed 1-1/4 inch diameter.

3. No more than one vent hole to each finger and/or thumb hole not to exceed 1/4 inch in diameter. This hole may not exceed 1/4 inch at any point through the depth of the hole.

4. One mill hole for inspection purposes not to exceed 5/8 inch in diameter and 1/8 inch in depth.

Balance:

The following tolerances shall be permissible in the balance of a bowling ball used in certified competition:

10.01 pounds or more:

a. Not more than 3 ounces difference between top half of the ball (finger hole side) and the bottom half (side opposite the finger holes).

b. Not more than 1 ounce difference between the sides to the right and left of the finger holes or between the sides in front and back of the finger holes.

c. A ball drilled without a thumb hole may not have more than 1 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

d. A ball drilled without any finger holes or indentations, may not have more than 1 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

e. A ball used without any hole or indentations may not have more than 1 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

For a ball weighing 10.0 pounds to 8.0 pounds:

a. Not more than 2 ounces difference between top half of the ball (finger hole side) and the bottom half (side opposite the finger holes).

b. Not more than 3/4 ounce difference between the sides to the right and left of the finger holes or between the sides in front and back of the finger holes.

c. A ball drilled without a thumb hole may not have more than 3/4 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

d. A ball drilled without any finger holes or indentations, may not have more than 3/4 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

e. A ball used without any hole or indentations may not have more than 3/4 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

Less than 8.0 pounds:

a. Not more than 3/4 ounce difference between the top half of the ball (finger hole side) and the bottom half (side opposite the finger holes).

b. Not more than 3/4 ounce difference between the sides to the right and left of the finger holes or between the sides in front and back of the finger holes.

c. A ball drilled without a thumb hole may not have more than 3/4 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

d. A ball drilled without any finger holes or indentations, may not have more than 3/4 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

e. A ball used without any hole or indentations may not have more than 3/4 ounce difference between any two halves of the ball.

LINK TO BOWLING EQUIPMENT SPECIFICATION MANUAL

http://usbcongress.http.internapcdn.net/usbcongress/bowl/equipandspecs/pdfs/04_2009_EquipSpecsManual_WEB.pdf

 

I hope this information has been helpful and informative.  Opinions expressed in this post are solely mine and may not reflect the opinions held by MSUSBC. As always your comments and opinions are welcome and encouraged. Please post your responses and thank you for reading the Bowler 2 Bowler Blog. Hope everyone is gearing up for another great season of Bowling.

New League Season Means Inventory Time: by James Goulding III

New League Season Means Inventory Time

by James Goulding III

 

Sorry about my lack of posting lately, things have been very busy at home and work, but I will try and make sure I start posting on a more frequent basis from now on.

As we approach a brand new fall league season in another month or so, I find it appropriate to discuss inventorying what is in your bowling bag, to help make sure you’re not stuck missing something at the wrong time when league comes.  I will break this down into three categories: bowling balls, shoes, and accessories.

BOWLING BALLS

I can get very technical about layouts, weights, etc., but I will keep the discussion as lamen as possible as it pertains to bowling balls in your bag.  Every bowler should have a 4-ball arsenal at their disposal to combat most conditions in a given league night (I suggest bowlers carry an 8 ball tournament arsenal, but that’s a topic for another day).  Here are the  four general categories to look for in a league arsenal:

1) High flaring, low rg., med to high diff., 2-3.5″ pin (preferably pin under), dull surface (1000 abralon or less) resin (or particle) bowling ball.  This will be your “heavy oiler” in the bag.  This ball will not get a lot of play, but when you need to use it, then you REALLY need to use it.  Pull this ball out on a flood, or when the carry down permits, you should be able to move into the lane and “open up” the oil line.

2) Medium flaring, med. rg., med. to high diff., 3.5-4.5″ pin, high sand (2000-4000 abralon) or lightly buffed surface (rough buff or equivalent) resin bowling ball.  This ball will be your “benchmark” ball, which means it can be played on the widest variety of league conditions.  You can play this ball straighter when there is more oil, or hook it a decent amount when they dry out a little.  This ball will help you determine where and when you use the other balls in your arsenal.  This is THE most important ball in your bag, so make sure it is a very good fit for your game.

3) Low flaring, medium to high rg, med. to low diff., 4.5-5.5″ pin (preferably pin over), polished or pearlized resin cover stock.  This will be your dry lane / light oil bowling ball.  When you find that your “benchmark” ball is checking up early, you can pull this piece out and continue to play a similar line to where you were playing with your previous ball.  This ball will get adequate play in your arsenal (especially if you are right handed), due to the fact that modern bowling balls tear apart the lanes rather quickly, and the shot tends to go away quicker.

4) Very low flaring (if any), high rg., low diff., polyester or pearlized urethane bowling ball.  This will primarily be your “spare” ball to shoot straight down the lane at spares, but it can also serve as a strike ball if the lane conditions become so torn up that your “dry” lane ball is hooking too much for you. 

That covers the bowling ball segment in a nutshell, so let’s move onto the next part of your bag, and that is shoes.

SHOES

There are so many different brands and types of shoes out there, I am going to focus on a few key things that bowlers should look for in a good pair of bowling shoes:

1) Durability.  You want a pair of bowling shoes that can last you a couple of seasons, so going to K-Mart to buy a $15 pair of bowling shoes is probably not the wisest choice for the serious bowler.  Those shoes are made for recreational bowlers who go bowling a few times a year and don’t want to rent house shoes, not for league bowlers who put a lot of miles on a pair of shoes every bowling season.  Basically, shoes that go in the 75 – 150 dollar range from your local pro shop will suffice, but always make sure you ask a qualified pro shop operator their advice before you purchase a pair of shoes.

2) Comfort.  I can not stress enough the need for a comfprtable pair of bowling shoes.  Make sure you find a pair that fit your feet well, or it will be a long bowling season, and an uncomfortable one at that.  Most shoe companies make “wide” versions and half-sizes so finding a comfortable pair of bowling shoes shouldn’t be a problem.

3) Interchangeable Heels / Soles.  I recommend that bowlers at least explore using a shoe that has an interchangeable sole system to combat changing approach surfaces as weather changes, and finding a shoe with changeable heels as well, is even better.  As weather changes, so do approaches, and having the ability to peel off one sole and stick on another with more or less slide capability can save damage to your knee and ankle from sticking or slipping too much, and also give you confidence that you don’t have to carry around illegal products such as EZ-slide and mess up the approach for every other bowler.  You can simply slap on another heel/sole combo and away you go.

That covers the shoe segment, and that leaves our last thing to inventory in your bag, and that is the accessories that we all need to carry to league to help get us through those nights when things might be going wrong due to injury, swollen hand, etc.

ACCESSORIES LIST

1 ) Shoe Brush

2 ) Box of 1″ white bowler’s tape

3 ) Box of 1″ black bowler’s tape

4 ) Tape insert tool

5 ) Hand held rosin bag

6 ) Bottle of new skin to repair blisters, cuts, etc.

7 ) Extra set of finger inserts (if applicable)

8 ) Bottle of super glue or krazy glue

9 ) Large towel for wiping down bowling ball, hands, etc.

10 ) Bag of slide soles / heels (if applicable) for your bowling shoes

11 ) Exacto knife or other small razor blade type of knife.

12 ) Bag of hand conditioner for extra grip

13 ) Knee and / or ankle brace

Well, that covers just about everything you could possible need in your bowling bag on a given league night.  Making sure that you do a complete rundown and inventory of all the above items will allow you to be prepared for any and all circumstances that may arise on your league night.  Feel free to comment about anything I have written, and as always, new ideas and suggestions are always welcome.  Thank you for reading the blog, and enjoy the rest of the summer.  The fall and league bowling will be here before you know it!!!

-James Goulding III

www.msusbc-maine.org

www.lausbca.org

USBC Award Changes for 2009-2010 by Ed Cotter

USBC Award Changes for 2009-2010 by Ed Cotter

So much for writing twice a month during the summer. This blog as going to be about new opportunities for USBC members. Instead, I’d like to highlight the recently implemented award changes for the upcoming (2009-2010) season.

USBC embers, youth and dult, will notice that the traditional 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, and 180 game awards have been replaced with 125, 150, and 175 game awards. two others, 225 and 275 game awards have been added to the list. With these game award changes, there are new average limits to be considered for earning the awards.

The series awards have changed also. The 200 series, youth and adult, has been dropped. For the youth, series awards now include 50 pin increments. 350, 450, 550, 650, and 750 series awards have been added. For adults, the 300, 400, 500, 600, and 700 series awards remain. Both youth and adults have new average limits to consider for earning a series award. One example is an adult could earn a 700 series if their average was 210 or below. Now the average limit for the 700 series is 190 and below.

The ‘once in a lifetime’ has not been implemented yet and remains highly debated.

The honor score, (11 in a row, 300 game, and 800 series), awards for adults remain unchanged. Youth this season (2009-2010) will now be eligible for rings for their honor versus last season’s (2008-2009) medallion.

There are two new award programs, Bowlopolis (youth) and PBA Experience (adult). Bowlopolis is geared towards lower average youth bowlers. PBA Experience is being recognized as it’s own entity versus an option within the Sport Bowling framework.

Only time will tell if USBC has taken the right steps in their awards restructure. I encourage everyone to provide feedback (good and or bad) to this blog, to your association board, and to USBC. Any comments left on this blog will be forwarded to our state association board and USBC.

As always, good luck and good bowling!!!

Single Pins, Near Perfection or Disaster – part 3 by Ed Cotter

Single Pins, Near Perfection or Disaster – part 3 by Ed Cotter

My apologies for taking so long to post the last installment.  End of winter season and start of summer season put me behind the 8-ball.  I’ll try to post at least twice a month during the summer.  There are a lot of changes coming and some golden opportunities for bowlers.  That will be in the next blog.

The last installment focuses on angle adjustments to the pocket.  This is going to be the hardest set of adjustments for most bowlers to master.  The required adjustments mean moving out of your comfort zone.  You may need to stand in another spot, focus on a different mark/target, and or change your release.  This won’t be easy, changing never is.  I’m writing about it and understand the principles, but still struggle with application of the knowledge.  The biggest handicap is not trusting that you made a good shot and make the necessary adjustments.  This is where warm-up, stretching and practice, are very important to getting you started on a good night of bowling.  How many times have you made the right adjustment in the 7^th frame only to wish you had made it in the 3^rd frame?  Welcome to the making the right adjustment to late support group.

What I’m going to explain should not be attempted without practicing first.  I have two sons that attack angle adjustments in different ways.  One does the newer thought process of changing balls based on lane conditions and other bowlers’ ball paths, that way he doesn’t have to change his approach to throw a good ball.  The other is more of a traditionalist.  He uses speed and hand positions to change the ball’s angle of entry.  Ball changing is the norm and stressed by most coaching systems.  Bowlers are taught how to develop 4, 6, and 8 ball arsenals.  This is unrealistic for new bowlers.  Using speed and hand positions can be challenging to instruct and just as challenging to learn.  I’m going to attempt to make it understandable.

First the optimum angle for a strike is 6-7 degrees.  Less than 6 degrees, the ball tends to deflect straight back.  Greater than 7 degrees, the ball tends to drive straight through and not deflect as needed.  You can change your pocket angle by making parallel or staggered targeting adjustments.  Parallel adjustments are moving where you stand and your ball target the same number of boards in the same direction.  Staggered adjustments are moving where you stand and or your ball target a different number of boards.   If your ball is hitting the pocket too steep (less than 6 degrees) you may want to move where you stand and your target the same number of boards towards the channel (a.k.a. the gutter) on your ball side.  This will allow the ball a little more time on the backend to build up directional momentum for a strong pocket hit.  Depending on comfort, you could stagger your adjustments.  Move the ball target towards the channel on your ball side or move your standing spot towards the channel on your non-ball side.  This will increase the angle your ball will take to hit the pocket.

Another way is to change your axis tilt.  The axis tilt is an imaginary pole that runs through your ball that runs perpendicular to your bowling hand/arm while holding your ball.  Making this kind of adjustment will definitely take some practice to master.  Be patient.  Mastery will not occur over night.  The best way to master this adjustment is to have another person help you and or video tape your release.  I’ll try to explain the concept.  Stand near the edge of a carpet (like it was a foul line.  Place a ruler in the palm of your hand and close your hand around it.  Looking down your arm at the ruler, match it up to the edge of the carpet.  This position is 0 degrees of axis tilt.  Remember this position, it’s the best tilt release for picking up your corner pin nemesis.  Using an imaginary clock face, turn the pinky side of your hand towards your body.  Stop when the ruler is at the 2 o’clock/8 o’clock position.  This will be about 30 degrees of axis tilt.  This will give your ball a little more traction when it enters the lane backend.   Turn the ruler some more in the same direction as before.  Stop at the 1:30 o’clock/7:30 o’clock position.  This will be about 45 degrees of axis tilt.  This is, for most bowlers, the maximum amount of axis tilt you’ll want to attempt.  Anymore and your ball will slide more than it will roll, unless you have a high ball revolution rate.

These are only a couple of many adjustments that can be made to change the ball angle into the pocket.  You’ll notice I didn’t specify how many boards to move and where to stand.  I didn’t because there is no magic formula that will work for every bowler.  Every bowler would have to bowl the same way in order to come up with that type of formula.  This isn’t the case.  Every bowler’s style is uniquely theirs, no matter how hard they try to copy someone else.  The best advice for mastering these adjustments is to find a coach or a bowler you trust.  Another set of eyes will be a little more honest than you trying to feel your way through it.

As always, Good Luck and Good Bowling!!